Gay and lesbian visitors contemplating a trip to The Bahamas may want to book elsewhere based on the protesters who greeted Rosie O’Donnell’s summer sail to Nassau on a chartered ship. Booking 1,400 passengers on the Norwegian Dawn, the ship sailed into Nassau Harbour and was met with protesters. This was the first voyage ever tailored for gay and lesbian families. The ship’s list of passengers included 450 children. Signs picketed the ship, proclaiming, “We will not bow to the gay agenda.” The protest march was led by local Christian pastors, who claimed, “Gay Ways Are Not God’s Ways.” In a statement, the U.S. Embassy proclaimed that the mostly American passengers deserved the right to visit in peace. In dramatic contrast, Key West welcomed the ship with a parade and a key to the city.
Nassau
The Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino, W. Bay St. on Cable Beach (tel. 800/222-7466), at the center of the action along this beachfront, is drawing a lot of fire from many of its guests. Maintenance really isn’t the greatest. Some of the rooms are in good shape, and others are showing wear and tear. A wholesale renovation wouldn’t be out of line, but because the hotel is often fully booked, management seems reluctant to shut it down for major overhaul. Complaints have centered on overpriced food, bad service, dirty carpeting, and antiquated plumbing. Check this one out before you book. Of course, you may end up patronizing it anyway because of its casino.
Freeport
On the water near Port Lucaya, Bell Channel Inn Hotel, King Rd. (tel. 242/373-1053), is both a full service dive center and a small inn of 32 spacious and air-conditioned bedrooms. Each room comes with a phone, hair dryer, fridge, and a private balcony with a view over the channel. There is also a solar-heated pool on site as well as the Seafood Restaurant & Bar. The professionally trained staff of scuba divers on site has more than 20 years of experience, and is in business seven days a week offering scuba diving and certification courses.
Elbow Cay
Secluded Elbow Cay is part of the Abacos and home to Hope Town Harbour Lodge at Hope Town (tel. 242/366-0095). On the grounds, the century-old Butterfly House, built by Loyalists in the clapboard style, has been renovated and restored with all the conveniences. The cottage has a second floor that can accommodate four extra persons in a double bed or twin beds. Depending on the season, the daily rate for Butterfly House ranges from $325 to $425.
Harbour Island
The Coral Sands on Harbour Island (tel. 242/333-2368), has created a new restaurant catering both to guests and non-guests. No longer called the Poseidon, the new Coral Sands Restaurant serves an international cuisine. Appetizers range from Bahamian conch chowder to smoked Atlantic salmon with horseradish. Seafood is best here, especially the filet of salmon with fresh citrus chunks. The herb-crusted Bahamian grouper with a tomato sauce is a special delight. Meats are imported but still manage to taste fresh, as evoked by the prime Angus beef steak which is grilled as you like it.
Treasure Cay
On this island in the Abacos, fishermen, yachties, and hotel guests are discovering a new after dark diversion, the Tipsy Seagull Bar (tel. 242/365-8535), which presents live music nightly in winter. When there’s a fishing tournament on the island, the joint is jam-packed. In addition to the two-fisted drinks, bar patrons can also order such treats as pizza and lobster consumed against a backdrop of nautical memorabilia.
Pond Cay/P>
Chances are you’ll be seeing expat actor Johnny Depp, star of Pirates of the Caribbean shopping and walking around the streets of Nassau. He hasn’t move there, but he’s purchased Little Halls Pond Cay, 60 miles south of Nassau, for $3.6 million. Nassau will be his refueling stop. The private island for this reclusive star is hardly open for tours and is accessible only by helicopter, seaplane or private boat. When not in the Bahamas, and when not on location, Depp spends most of his time in Paris with singer/actress Vanessa Paradis.
Andros
Kalame Cay, the luxury private island that is part of Andros, lies near Staniard Creek. The offshore resort (tel. 242/368-6281), was featured on the hit TV reality show, The Bachelor. Now that the TV crews have gone, regular guests can check in, following in the sandy footsteps of Jesse Palmer, the NFL quarterback.
To promote business, the resort is featuring an all-inclusive “Dream Date Package.” The all-inclusive package at Kamale Cay offers guests a choice of a 5- or 7-day stay at Pigeon Plum Villa Suite, one of the 11 private villas on the island, accessible only by ferry off the coast of Andros. Package includes roundtrip airfare from Nassau to Andros Island via seaplane, champagne, red roses, private dinner for two on the beach with a private chef and butler. Prices, based on double-occupancy, begin at $5,580. All rates include meals, drinks, snorkeling equipment, sea kayaks, tennis court, swimming pool, miles of pristine beach, staff tips, room taxes, and airport transfers. Domestic air transportation is not included.
Believe it or not, intrepid shoppers are heading for the remote settlement of Red Bays on Andros Island, the largest and least explored of the Bahamian archipelago. Historically, the only way to reach Red Bays was by boat. The opening of a new causeway has now provided a link to “mainland Andros.” Before heading here, call either Gertrude Gibson at tel. 242/329-7739 or Danielle Knowles at tel. 242/464-3425). Either of these two sisters — there are no addresses here — will show you around the settlement and introduce you to the basket makers, craftspeople, and woodcarvers.
The baskets from Red Bays have long been sold in Nassau stores, but if you’re visiting Andros you can now shop at the seedy little town where they are made. Either of the sisters will take you right into the modest homes of the craftspeople where they create their work. The traditional baskets are made from dried silvertop palm fronds; they are thickly coiled and elaborately designed. Prices are only a fraction of what they are in Nassau.
The best woodcarver in the hamlet is Henry Wallace (tel. 242/329-7762). Some of his best woodcarving is on display at the Smithsonian Institution. His carvings are made from either mahogany or “horse-flesh wood.”
Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince, Frommers
