NASSAU, BAHAMAS — Think of New Providence, just one of the 700 islands that make up the Bahamas archipelago, and you’re likely to imagine wall-to-wall hotels and interchangeable tourist attractions cheek by jowl on the oceanfront.
Mostly, you’d be right. Nassau’s Bay Street, the north shore’s main tourist drag, is lined with nondescript chi-chi jewellery, T-shirt and clothing shops. If they weren’t staffed with Bahamians, you might get confused about where you are.
But there is another side of the island to explore, with colourful places to grab a bite, sip a Kalik (the beer of the Bahamas), dance by a jukebox and get to know some of the folk who call the island home. This is where the locals live, eat and play.
And if you see a shop without a light on, don’t assume it’s closed; if the door is open — well, it’s open. Just step inside and you’re sure to find a lively conversation or an energetic game of dominoes in full swing. And don’t be shy — Bahamians love to laugh and talk. Start chatting with anyone, and soon you’ll be engaged in a hearty discussion of life, love and, of course, politics.
The island can be expensive, but if you have a car, there are lots of places where the food is inexpensive and tasty, the company is delightful and where the history of the island invites exploration.
Here are some highlights:
Strange sites
Nestled into the southwestern part of the island is Coral Harbour, the former site of a luxury resort that was to be built by Coca-Cola in the early 1960s. In 1969, when the Bahamas became a commonwealth, the pop maker pulled out. It is now a beautiful, quiet and wealthy residential area with a canal running through it. The almost-finished hotel still stands, its ugly concrete presence a curious wonder next to the island’s only Bahamas Defence Force base (yes, the Bahamas has its own army).
The enclave of gorgeous beachfront properties offers a glimpse of how the island’s well-to-do live. Just off the main road, there is a long, usually deserted beach on which to stroll, and even though the beach fronts onto private property, you don’t have to worry about trespassing. It’s a great place to bring a picnic, and for that, you need to bring Mr. Sawyer’s famous conch salad.
On Thursdays, starting at 10 a.m., Mr. Sawyer (we’re not sure of his first name; he is very dignified and it seemed improper to ask) opens his conch-salad stand at the local gas station. For $7 (all amounts in U.S. dollars), he’ll prepare a delicious version of this island’s famed dish. He grabs a fresh conch from a bucket, cuts the flesh out of the shell, rubs lemon over it, adds onions, tomatoes, green and red peppers (if you don’t like spicy, ask him to hold the jalapenos), and then drenches the whole mixture with lime juice and sprinkles it with sea salt. It’s absolutely delicious.
Snorkelling
Coral Harbour has two scuba-diving outfits, but instead of paying the $48 it will cost for a three-hour outing (including snorkelling equipment; $31 extra for full scuba outfit), you can drive to Stewart Cove, where the outfitters anchor their boats, and snorkel for as long as you like. When heading south on Coral Harbour Road, turn right on Carmichael Road. Just past Adelaide Village, you’ll see a dirt road on your left. Follow it and park. Off the secluded and safe beach, you will find a bounty of underwater life. Along with the eye-popping, colourful tropical fish, my partner and I were lucky enough to spot a group of beautiful eagle rays swimming in formation and a huge stingray that was slumbering on the ocean floor. Off to the left, there’s an orange buoy that marks the spot of a downed Cessna Caravan, a single-engine plane dumped there during a movie shoot.
Eating
After you’ve worked up an appetite, go back the way you came until you hit the Oasis Restaurant. It’s a lively diner and bar frequented by the locals, and the happy hour was boisterous with folks drinking Kalik, dancing and singing along with the jukebox. Mavis and Wilda, the sassy young bartenders, are spirited, and have a deft way of dealing with unruly clients.
The house specialty is grouper, which, steamed or fried, melts in your mouth. Or try the cracked conch (anything “cracked” is deep-fried), which comes hot and crispy with a fiery dip. The portions are huge, and with a side of rice ‘n’ peas (pigeon, not the green ones), and some greens, the $8.95 price is more than reasonable.
Got a taste for a little bit o’ Britain? Try the Twin Brothers restaurant. It’s done up with lots of wood and a brass rail at the bar. Its outdoor patio is a great place to people watch while wolfing down greasy, but delicious, conch-filled fritters.
Cooking
If you will be doing some of your own cooking, go to the Docks in Nassau. It’s an earthy outdoor market near the bridge to Paradise Island. This is where locals sell fish, fruits, vegetables, prepared food and crafts. Don’t be put off by the shabby and rickety-looking stands. We bought a load of fresh, cleaned red snapper for $10. Over at the vegetable stand, I asked the seller to tell me how to cook it. She loaded red and green peppers, onion, plantain and a bunch of fresh sage into a bag ($4) and told me how to use the ingredients when cooking the fish. Arawak Cay
Nassau is famous for its “fish fry,” which refers to the Arawak Cay off West Bay street, east of Saunders Beach. Here you’ll find about 25 different restaurants and stands, offering up roughly the same menu, but the different flavours come from each unique environment.
There are two places that stand out: Seafood Haven and Goldie’s Restaurant and Bar. At the former, try the Combo (one will amply feed two people). It’s a grouper with shrimp and conch, smothered in vegetables and baked in foil over the grill, and served with brown rice and beans, a refreshing salad and dessert of the island’s famous guava duff, boiled dough stuffed with fruit and served with a warm custard-like sauce. The fish was done to perfection and the variety of flavours tickled our palates. Best of all, the bill, including a bottle of wine, came to only $65 (U.S.). We were stuffed.
At Goldie’s Restaurant and Bar, Kalik costs $1.99 a bottle (next door at Brother Ernie’s Kitchen, it’s $3). Have your meal out back on the rainbow-painted deck that overlooks a sheltered cove. The banks are stacked with millions of conch shells. Sometimes Goldie’s has barracuda on the menu, which offers this caveat: “eat it at your own risk.” Apparently, it can be poisonous and upset your stomach, but as our waitress assured us, we’d only be “sick for a few days.”
History
In the East Hill and West street area of Nassau, climb up the 65 limestone steps of the Queen’s Staircase, built by slaves in the 18th century. The steps lead to Fort Fincastle, a fortress that looks oddly like a paddle-wheel steamer. The fort offers a beautiful view of Nassau and the harbour. You’ll need to quench your thirst after climbing the 31-metre stretch so turn right and climb into the Fincastle Bar and Grill. Its owner, Gregory Clarke, comes to Toronto every year to help build the Caribana costumes.
Pack your bags
GETTING THERE
From Nassau International Airport, head south on Coral Harbour Road and then Harbour Drive. Look for the large, Coca-Cola-style sign to Coral Harbour.
WHERE TO STAY
Coral Harbour Beachouse and Villas: (242) 362-2210; beachvillas@coralwave.com. Bed-sitting suites at this laid-back spot range from $120 to $140, including maid service. The thatched cabana serves fantastic jerk chicken.
Prosper Place: (242) 362-2800. Kitty corner to the Beachouse and more luxurious. Suites cost $250 a night and sleep up to four.
WHERE TO EAT
Twin Brothers: Parliament Street, Nassau; (242) 322-7387.
Seafood Haven: Arawak Cay; (242) 322-5344.
MORE INFORMATION
New Providence fared well during recent hurricanes.
Bahamas Ministry of Tourism: (242) 302-2000; http://www.bahamas.com.
By Wanda Kowalski, The Globe and Mail, Travel Section
